P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High (Bank 1)
TL;DR
P0113 = intake air temperature sensor circuit high voltage. Severity: low. Top causes: faulty IAT sensor (45%), open/corroded connector or wiring (40%), poor ground or ECM (15%). Typical cost: $20 (sensor DIY) to $150 (at a shop). Often a quick fix.
Can I keep driving with P0113?
IF you have P0113 → the car is generally safe to drive. The ECM uses a default air-temperature value, so you may notice slightly worse fuel economy or cold-start behavior. Fix it at your convenience, but it isn’t an emergency.
Symptoms
- Check engine light on
- Slightly worse fuel economy
- Minor hard starting (especially when warm)
- Usually little or no change in driving
- Possible incorrect air-temp reading on a scan tool
Top causes (ranked by probability)
| Likely cause | Probability | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Faulty intake air temperature sensor | 45% | |
| Open, loose or corroded connector / broken wiring | 40% | Common — inspect the connector first |
| Poor ground or (rarely) ECM fault | 15% |
What does P0113 mean?
Technical explanation
The IAT sensor is a thermistor whose resistance falls as air temperature rises. The ECM reads the voltage across it; high voltage corresponds to high resistance (cold air) and, at the extreme, an open circuit. P0113 sets when the signal voltage stays above the calibrated threshold, indicating the sensor reads implausibly cold or the circuit is open. On many engines the IAT is integrated into the MAF sensor, so a MAF/IAT connector or wiring fault commonly triggers it.
In simple terms
A small sensor measures how warm the air entering your engine is, so the computer can fine-tune the fuel. P0113 means that sensor is reading as if the air is impossibly cold — usually because the sensor failed or a wire/plug is loose or broken. The car generally drives fine; it’s an easy fix.
How to diagnose P0113 (step by step)
- Read IAT live data. A reading of extreme cold (e.g. -40°) on a warm engine confirms an open/high circuit.
- Inspect the IAT/MAF connector. Check for a disconnected, corroded or backed-out connector and damaged wiring.
- Test the sensor. Measure resistance — it should change with temperature; an open reading means a failed sensor.
- Check the signal and ground wiring. Verify continuity and a good ground back to the ECM.
- Confirm the fix. Clear the code and verify the IAT reads a realistic temperature.
Repair options & cost
- Replace the IAT sensor (or MAF if integrated)
- Repair or reconnect the connector/wiring
- Clean corroded terminals and grounds
| DIY cost | $10–$80 |
|---|---|
| Workshop cost | $60–$150 |
| Repair time | 15–45 minutes |
Costs are local ballpark ranges and vary by region and vehicle.
Tools you’ll need
- OBD-II scanner (BlueDriver / ANCEL)
- Multimeter
- Electrical contact cleaner
Vehicle-specific notes
- On many vehicles the IAT is built into the MAF sensor — check that connector first.
- A common cause is a sensor or connector disturbed during recent intake/air-filter work.
- Drivability impact is usually minor, but fix it to keep fuel trims accurate.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Replacing the sensor when the connector or wiring is the real fault
- Confusing P0113 (high/open) with P0112 (low/short)
- Overlooking that the IAT is part of the MAF on many engines
- Not verifying the new reading after the repair
Frequently asked questions
Is P0113 serious?
No, it’s low severity. The car usually drives normally; the main effects are slightly worse fuel economy and cold-start tuning. It’s typically an easy, cheap fix.
What causes P0113?
A high-voltage (open) signal from the intake air temperature sensor — usually a failed sensor or an open/corroded connector or wire. On many engines the IAT is inside the MAF.
Can I just clear the code?
It will return until the underlying open circuit is fixed. Inspect the connector and test the sensor, then repair the cause.
P0113 summary
| Meaning | Intake air temp sensor circuit high (open) |
|---|---|
| Severity | Low |
| Safe to drive? | Yes — minor effect |
| Top cause | Faulty IAT sensor (45%) |
| DIY cost | $10–$80 |
| Shop cost | $60–$150 |