Ford Explorer Fuse Box: Location & Guide
TL;DR
Explorer fuse boxes live under the hood (engine bay, near the battery) and inside the cabin (driver-side dash/kick panel); always confirm exact fuse positions on the box lid diagram or in the owner's manual, since layouts vary by generation and trim.
Where the Ford Explorer fuse boxes are located
Every Explorer generation sold in North America uses a two-box layout. The engine compartment fuse box (power distribution box) sits under the hood, usually mounted against the firewall on the driver's side near the battery, and handles high-current circuits such as the cooling fan, starter, and headlight relays. The interior fuse box is mounted behind a plastic panel in the cabin, most often to the left of the steering column near the brake pedal, or behind a small kick-panel cover on the driver's side lower dash. It covers circuits like the radio, interior lights, power windows, and accessory outlets.
How to open each fuse box
The engine-bay box usually has a lid held by side clips or a couple of quarter-turn fasteners - press the tabs inward or lift straight up after releasing the latch. The interior panel cover typically unclips by pulling from one edge (often the top or the side facing the door), or is held by one or two screws depending on the model year. Never force a cover; if it resists, check for a hidden retaining tab first.
Finding the correct fuse legend
Do not rely on generic fuse charts found online, because exact fuse numbers and amperages have changed between the fourth-generation Explorer (2011-2019) and the sixth-generation Explorer (2020-2025), and can even differ by engine or trim within the same generation. The authoritative legend is printed on a diagram card on the inside of each fuse box lid, and the same layout is reproduced in the electrical/fuses chapter of the owner's manual for your specific model year.
Fuse box locations by generation
| Generation / years | Fuse box | Location | How to access |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fourth-gen (2011-2019) | Engine compartment (power distribution box) | Under hood, driver's side, near the battery/firewall | Unclip or lift the lid after releasing the side latches |
| Fourth-gen (2011-2019) | Interior fuse panel | Driver's side dash, left of the brake pedal / kick panel | Pull the cover free from its retaining clips |
| Sixth-gen (2020-2025) | Engine compartment (power distribution box) | Under hood, driver's side, near the battery | Release the lid latch or turn quarter-turn fasteners |
| Sixth-gen (2020-2025) | Interior fuse panel | Behind lower driver-side dash trim / kick panel | Remove the trim cover, sometimes secured with a screw |
Fuses that most commonly blow (by function)
- Cigarette lighter / 12V accessory outlets: a shared circuit that trips easily when multiple phone chargers, inverters, or air compressors are plugged in at once.
- Radio / infotainment system: a blown fuse here typically kills the touchscreen, sound, and sometimes backup camera display together.
- Interior lighting circuit: covers dome lights, map lights, and glovebox light; a blown fuse leaves the cabin dark even though other electronics work.
- Blower motor (HVAC fan): when this fuse blows, airflow from the vents stops completely even though the climate controls still light up.
- Fuel pump relay/fuse: a blown fuse here causes a no-start or a stall shortly after starting, since the pump loses power.
Checking and replacing a fuse safely
Turn off the ignition before removing any fuse. Pull the suspect fuse straight out with the plastic fuse-puller tool usually clipped inside the fuse box lid, then inspect the thin metal element inside: a blown fuse shows a visibly broken or melted strip. If the break is not obvious, test with a test light or multimeter across the two prongs with the ignition on - no continuity or no voltage on one leg confirms it is blown. Always replace with a fuse of the identical amp rating printed on the lid diagram; never install a higher-amperage fuse, since that removes the circuit's protection and can lead to melted wiring or a fire.
When a fuse keeps blowing
A single blown fuse from an overloaded accessory outlet is normal wear. A fuse that blows again immediately after replacement almost always means a short circuit or failing component downstream, not a coincidence. In that case, stop replacing fuses and have the vehicle's onboard diagnostic system scanned for stored fault codes, which point technicians directly to the affected circuit or module and save hours of manual tracing.
Summary
| Engine bay fuse box location | Under hood, driver's side, near battery/firewall |
|---|---|
| Interior fuse box location | Driver's side dash/kick panel, near brake pedal |
| Fuse legend source | Diagram on box lid + owner's manual electrical chapter |
| Generations covered | Fourth-gen 2011-2019, Sixth-gen 2020-2025 |
| Most commonly blown fuses | 12V outlet, radio, interior lights, blower motor, fuel pump relay |
| Fuse replacement rule | Match exact amp rating; never install a higher-amp fuse |
| Repeat blown fuse means | Likely short circuit - scan for stored fault codes |
Full diagnostics
For the complete step-by-step diagnostic and repair guide, see Ford Explorer: Common Problems, Fault Codes & Repairs.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the fuse box on a Ford Explorer?
Every Ford Explorer has two fuse boxes: one under the hood near the battery on the driver's side (the power distribution box, for engine and high-current circuits), and one inside the cabin behind a dash or kick panel on the driver's side (for accessories, lights, radio, and windows). Exact panel shape and clip style vary between the 2011-2019 and 2020-2025 generations, but the two-box layout is consistent.
How do I know which fuse controls the radio or cigarette lighter on my Explorer?
Do not guess from a generic online chart. Open the interior fuse box cover and read the diagram printed on the inside of the lid, which lists each fuse position by the circuit it protects (radio, accessory outlet, etc.) for your specific model year; the owner's manual electrical chapter repeats the same legend.
Why does my Ford Explorer fuse keep blowing right after I replace it?
A fuse that blows immediately after being replaced is a sign of a short circuit or a failing component drawing too much current, not bad luck. Continuing to swap in new fuses will not fix this and can be unsafe; the vehicle should be scanned for stored diagnostic trouble codes so a technician can trace the exact circuit at fault.
Can I put a higher-amp fuse in my Explorer if it keeps blowing?
No. Always match the exact amperage printed on the fuse box lid diagram for that position. Installing a higher-amp fuse removes the circuit's overload protection and can allow excessive current to overheat the wiring, creating a fire risk.