Subaru Outback Fuse Box: Location & Guide
TL;DR
The Outback uses one under-hood fuse/relay box and one interior fuse box near the driver's left kick panel; the lid diagram and owner's manual are the only reliable source for exact fuse numbers.
Where the Subaru Outback fuse boxes are located
Across the 4th generation (2010-2014), 5th generation (2015-2019) and current 6th generation (2020-present), Subaru has kept the Outback's fuse layout consistent: one box in the engine bay and one inside the cabin. Earlier Outback generations (1995-2009) follow a similar two-box layout, but check your own lid diagram since exact positions shifted between redesigns.
| Generation / years | Fuse box | Location | How to access |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4th gen (2010-2014) | Engine bay (main/relay) | Front of engine compartment, driver's side, next to the battery | Unclip or lift the black plastic cover latch by hand, no tools usually needed |
| 4th gen (2010-2014) | Interior | Driver's side dash, low near the left kick panel/hood release area | Pull the small trim panel edge to pop it free, or remove 1-2 retaining screws |
| 5th gen (2015-2019) | Engine bay (main/relay) | Front of engine compartment, driver's side, near the battery | Release the plastic cover clips, lift straight up |
| 5th gen (2015-2019) | Interior | Driver's side dash, left kick panel area | Pry the cover edge gently with a trim tool or fingers |
| 6th gen (2020-present) | Engine bay (main/relay) | Front of engine compartment, driver's side, near the battery | Unclip the cover; some trims add a second small relay cover nearby |
| 6th gen (2020-present) | Interior | Driver's side dash, left kick panel below the steering column | Pull the cover panel free by hand or remove the retaining screw |
Finding the official fuse legend
Do not rely on generic fuse-position lists. Every fuse box lid has a printed diagram naming each fuse and relay by circuit (headlights, wipers, fuel pump, etc.), and the owner's manual repeats the same chart with amperage ratings in its electrical/fuses chapter. Because amp ratings and exact slot numbers can differ by trim, engine, and even mid-year running changes, the lid diagram for your specific vehicle is the only reliable source.
Fuses that most commonly blow, by function
- Cigarette lighter / 12V accessory outlet - blows from phone chargers, tire inflators, or other high-draw plug-in accessories; symptom is a dead outlet with everything else working normally.
- Radio / infotainment - a blown fuse here kills the touchscreen, radio, and sometimes backup camera display at once.
- Interior lights (dome, map, cargo) - a blown fuse leaves interior lighting dark even though exterior lights work.
- Blower motor (HVAC fan) - symptom is no airflow from any vent at any fan speed, even though the climate controls light up normally.
- Fuel pump relay/fuse - a blown fuse or failed relay here causes a no-start or stall condition because the engine isn't getting fuel pressure.
Checking and replacing a fuse safely
Turn off the ignition first. Pull the suspect fuse with the plastic fuse-puller tool usually clipped inside the fuse box lid, and look at the thin metal element inside: a broken or blackened strip means it is blown. For certainty, a simple test light or multimeter across the fuse terminals confirms continuity. Replace only with a fuse of the identical amperage rating printed on the lid diagram - never a higher rating, since that removes the circuit protection the fuse is there to provide.
When a fuse keeps blowing
If a fresh fuse blows again within seconds or minutes of driving, that almost always points to a short circuit or failing component downstream rather than a bad fuse itself, and simply upsizing the fuse to make it stop is unsafe. In that situation, pulling stored diagnostic trouble codes with an OBD-II scanner - even a basic one - can quickly narrow down which circuit or module is at fault before you start disassembling the dash or wiring harness.
Summary
| Fuse box locations | Engine bay (driver's side, near battery) + interior (driver's side dash/kick panel) |
|---|---|
| Trunk/cargo fuse box | None - Outback has no separate rear fuse box |
| Generations covered | 4th gen 2010-2014, 5th gen 2015-2019, 6th gen 2020-present |
| Official fuse legend source | Diagram on fuse box lid + owner's manual electrical chapter |
| Common blown-fuse points | 12V outlet, radio/infotainment, interior lights, blower motor, fuel pump relay |
| Fuse replacement rule | Match the amp rating printed on the lid diagram - never install a higher rating |
| Repeatedly blowing fuse | Suggests a short circuit; scan for stored OBD-II codes before replacing again |
Full diagnostics
For the complete step-by-step diagnostic and repair guide, see Subaru Outback: Common Problems, Fault Codes & Repairs.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the interior fuse box on a Subaru Outback?
On Outback models from 2010 through the current generation, the interior fuse box sits on the driver's side of the dashboard, low down near the left kick panel below the steering column. A small trim cover pops off by hand or after removing one or two retaining screws to reveal the fuses.
Where is the engine bay fuse box on a Subaru Outback?
The under-hood fuse and relay box is at the front of the engine compartment on the driver's side, next to the battery, across the 4th generation (2010-2014), 5th generation (2015-2019) and 6th generation (2020-present) Outback. It is covered by a black plastic lid that unclips or lifts off by hand.
How do I know which fuse controls a specific function on my Outback?
Check the diagram printed on the underside of the fuse box lid, which labels every fuse and relay position by circuit, and cross-reference it with the fuses chapter of your owner's manual, since exact fuse numbers and amp ratings can vary by trim and engine even within the same generation.
Why does my Subaru Outback's cigarette lighter or 12V outlet fuse keep blowing?
A 12V outlet fuse that blows repeatedly is usually caused by a high-draw accessory (like an air compressor or inverter) overloading the circuit, or by a short in the accessory's plug or wiring; if a correctly-rated fuse blows again almost immediately, have the circuit checked rather than fitting a higher-amp fuse.