Jeep Renegade Fuse Box: Location & Guide
TL;DR
Check the engine-bay box for high-current and relay-fed circuits, and the driver-side dash box for interior electronics. The lid diagram and owner's manual are the only reliable amp-rating source.
Where the fuse boxes are
On every generation of the Renegade (BU platform, sold from model year 2015 onward, with a mild facelift starting around model year 2019), there are two fuse boxes. The engine compartment fuse box sits toward the front of the bay, close to the battery, and houses the main relays and higher-amperage circuits (starter, cooling fan, headlights, ABS/traction control). The interior fuse box is tucked under the dashboard on the driver's side, roughly level with the left knee, and covers cabin electronics such as the radio, power outlets, interior lighting and power windows.
How to open each box
The engine-bay box has a plastic lid held by simple clips or tabs - press or pull at the marked edge (often an arrow or notch) and lift straight up. The interior box is hidden behind a small trim panel to the left of the steering column (sometimes below the hood-release lever); it usually pries off by hand or after removing one or two screws, exposing the fuses and a pocket that holds a small fuse-puller tool.
Where to find the real fuse legend
Do not rely on generic amp-map charts. The authoritative fuse legend is printed on the inside of each box lid (or on a fold-out card next to it) and is reproduced in the electrical section of the owner's manual for your exact model year and trim. Because relay and fuse assignments can shift between trims (e.g. gasoline vs diesel engines, or markets), always match the lid diagram to your own vehicle before touching anything.
| Generation / years | Fuse box | Location | How to access |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1st gen, pre-facelift (MY2015-2018) | Engine compartment (power distribution box) | Front of engine bay, next to the battery | Unclip and lift the plastic lid |
| 1st gen, pre-facelift (MY2015-2018) | Interior fuse box | Under dash, driver's side, left of steering column | Pull off or unscrew the small trim cover |
| 1st gen, facelift (MY2019-present) | Engine compartment (power distribution box) | Front of engine bay, next to the battery | Unclip and lift the plastic lid |
| 1st gen, facelift (MY2019-present) | Interior fuse box | Under dash, driver's side, left of steering column | Pull off or unscrew the small trim cover |
Fuses that commonly blow, by function
Owners most often report issues tracing back to a small handful of circuits: the 12V accessory outlet (stops charging phones or dash cams after a short-lived overload), the radio/infotainment circuit (screen goes blank or restarts), interior lighting (dome or map lights stop working), the blower motor (HVAC fan stops on one or all speeds), and the fuel pump relay circuit (car cranks but will not start or stalls). Each of these points to a specific fuse or relay identified only on the lid diagram for your model year.
Checking and replacing a fuse
Pull the suspect fuse with the fuse-puller tool and look at the thin metal strip inside - a blown fuse shows a visibly melted or separated strip. If it looks fine, a simple test light or multimeter across the two prongs (with the circuit powered) confirms whether current passes. Replace only with a fuse of the identical amp rating printed on the lid diagram - never a higher rating, since that removes the protection the circuit was designed with. If a replacement fuse blows again quickly, stop: that is a sign of a short circuit or failing component downstream, not a worn-out fuse, and the vehicle should be scanned for stored diagnostic trouble codes before further repairs.
Summary
| Engine bay fuse box location | Front of engine compartment, next to the battery |
|---|---|
| Interior fuse box location | Under dash, driver's side, left of steering column |
| Fuse legend source | Printed diagram on the box lid + owner's manual electrical chapter |
| Common trouble circuits | 12V outlet, radio/infotainment, interior lights, blower motor, fuel pump relay |
| How to test a fuse | Visual check of the metal strip, or test light/multimeter across the prongs |
| Replacement rule | Match the exact amp rating on the lid diagram, never go higher |
| Repeat blown fuse | Indicates a short or failing component - scan for stored fault codes |
Full diagnostics
For the complete step-by-step diagnostic and repair guide, see Jeep Renegade: Common Problems, Fault Codes & Repairs.
Frequently asked questions
How many fuse boxes does a Jeep Renegade have?
Two on every model year: one in the engine bay next to the battery for high-current and relay circuits, and one under the driver's side of the dashboard for interior electronics like the radio, lights and power windows.
Where do I find the exact fuse amp ratings for my Renegade?
On the printed diagram on the underside of each fuse box lid, and in the electrical/fuses chapter of the owner's manual for your specific model year and trim. Amp ratings and relay positions can differ between trims and engines, so always match your own vehicle's diagram rather than a generic chart found online.
Why does my 12V outlet or radio keep losing power?
These are two of the most commonly reported fuse issues on the Renegade. If the fuse blows once from an overloaded accessory, replacing it with the same amp rating usually solves it. If it blows again right away, there is likely a short in the wiring or a failing component, and the car should be checked for stored fault codes rather than repeatedly replacing fuses.
Can I put a higher-amp fuse in if the correct one keeps blowing?
No. A higher-rated fuse removes the protection that circuit was designed with and can allow overheating or wiring damage. A fuse that blows repeatedly means there is an underlying short or failing part that needs to be diagnosed and fixed, not worked around with a bigger fuse.