P0336: Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
TL;DR
P0336 = crankshaft position sensor signal out of range / erratic. Severity: high. The engine can stall or be hard to start. Top causes: failing crank sensor (45%), damaged reluctor/tone ring (20%), wiring/connector fault (20%). Typical fix: $80–$400.
Can I keep driving with P0336?
IF the engine runs and starts normally for now → drive only to get it fixed soon; the fault is often intermittent and can leave you stranded. IF it stalls, cuts out or won’t restart when hot → don’t rely on the car, because a crank-signal dropout shuts the engine off without warning.
Symptoms
- Engine stalling or cutting out, sometimes intermittently
- Hard starting or extended cranking, especially when hot
- Misfires or hesitation under load
- Check engine light, sometimes flashing during a stumble
- Tachometer dropping or jumping erratically
Top causes (ranked by probability)
| Likely cause | Probability | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Failing crankshaft position sensor | 45% | Often heat-sensitive — fails when hot |
| Damaged or contaminated reluctor (tone) ring | 20% | Chipped teeth or metal debris |
| Wiring or connector fault at the sensor | 20% | Heat, vibration, oil intrusion |
| Incorrect sensor air gap / wrong part | 10% | |
| Electrical interference from a nearby fault | 5% |
What does P0336 mean?
Technical explanation
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor reads a toothed reluctor ring to report engine speed and crank angle, which the ECM uses for ignition and injector timing. P0336 (range/performance) sets when the signal is present but inconsistent with expected tooth count/spacing or with the camshaft signal — for example missing pulses, noise, or an incorrect air gap. This differs from P0335 (no signal/circuit). Causes include a marginal sensor, a chipped or contaminated reluctor ring, excessive air gap, metal debris on the sensor tip, or intermittent wiring.
In simple terms
A sensor watches a toothed wheel on the engine’s crankshaft to know how fast it’s spinning and where the pistons are. P0336 means that signal is jumpy or doesn’t add up. Since the computer needs it to fire the spark and fuel, the engine can stall, misfire or be hard to start.
How to diagnose P0336 (step by step)
- Scan and note conditions. Record whether the fault is tied to heat or rough roads, which points to the sensor or wiring respectively.
- Inspect sensor wiring and connector. Check for chafing, oil intrusion, loose pins and proximity to hot exhaust.
- View live RPM/crank data. Watch for signal dropouts or noise while cranking and during a stumble.
- Check the sensor and reluctor ring. Look for metal debris on the sensor tip and inspect the tone ring for chipped or damaged teeth.
- Verify air gap / correct part. Confirm the sensor is the correct part and properly seated to the specified air gap.
Repair options & cost
- Replace the crankshaft position sensor (most common fix)
- Repair wiring/connector at the sensor
- Clean metal debris from the sensor tip
- Replace a damaged reluctor (tone) ring
| DIY cost | $25–$150 |
|---|---|
| Workshop cost | $120–$400 |
| Repair time | 30 min to 2 hours depending on sensor location |
Costs are local ballpark ranges and vary by region and vehicle.
Tools you’ll need
Scan your car: recommended OBD-II scanners →Vehicle-specific notes
- Heat-related stalling that clears after the engine cools is a classic failing-CKP-sensor pattern.
- Some models require relearning the crank sensor variation after replacement with a scan tool.
- Metal shavings on a magnetic sensor tip can cause P0336 without the sensor itself being bad.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Replacing the sensor without checking the connector and wiring
- Ignoring a chipped reluctor ring and repeatedly replacing sensors
- Skipping the crank-variation relearn where it’s required
- Fitting a low-quality sensor that fails again when hot
Recommended products
Tools to diagnose it
Independent picks. We may earn a commission from these links, at no extra cost to you — it never changes our guidance.
Frequently asked questions
What’s the difference between P0335 and P0336?
P0335 means no signal/circuit problem from the crank sensor; P0336 means the signal is there but erratic or out of range. Both involve the crankshaft position sensor.
Can I drive with P0336?
Only briefly and with caution. The fault is often intermittent and can stall the engine without warning, so have it repaired before relying on the car.
What usually fixes P0336?
Most often a new crankshaft position sensor, but always check the wiring/connector and the reluctor ring, and perform a crank relearn if your vehicle requires it.
Why does my car stall only when hot?
Many crank sensors fail as they heat up, dropping the signal and stalling the engine until it cools — a classic P0336 pattern.
P0336 summary
| Meaning | Crank position sensor signal erratic/out of range |
|---|---|
| Severity | High |
| Safe to drive? | Caution — can stall |
| Top cause | Failing crank sensor (45%) |
| DIY cost | $25–$150 |
| Shop cost | $120–$400 |